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But even though all those diversions are on offer, I quickly realized they don’t define the place.
Despite its glamorous image, despite the surrounding countryside full of verdant, rolling horse farms, expensive villas, and châteaux, the Côte Fleurie is serene and low-key, a quiet and accessible alternative to the south of France, a French Montecito as opposed to Malibu.
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Long a favored resort of the Parisian elite, the Côte Fleurie, on France’s northern coast, is shedding a bit of its formal reserve.
A local widow, Madame Toutain, lived a few miles away in Honfleur, another eye-catching port town, this one dating back to the 11th century, when it was a fortress guarding the mouth of the Seine.
Artists like Monet, Jean-Francois Millet, Jean-Baptiste-Camille Corot, Gustave Courbet, and the poet Charles Baudelaire (an early champion of Boudin), all stayed at Toutain’s farmhouse on a hill, where they ate the local shrimp and painted nature and the slate-front houses along the town’s 17th-century harbor from dawn until dusk—which stretches until after 10 p.m. Though the widow’s farm was sold in 1870 and the artists scattered, that hillside is now the site of the Ferme St.-Siméon, a pleasant, family-friendly inn and spa with an ambitious (if overrated) restaurant.
Today’s view across the Seine—straight into the industrial port of Le Havre—is hardly what Monet saw, yet it’s still easy to imagine how Honfleur became a crucible for Impressionism, which came into vogue as Deauville did in the late 19th century.
Simultaneously, Cabourg sprang out of the dunes at the western end of this lush stretch of coast.
Looking west, the sand and ocean run into distant cliffs.Renamed “Balbec,” Cabourg and its palace hotel were key settings in Proust’s When he wrote those volumes, the historic, aesthetic, and geographic parameters of the Côte Fleurie were already set.However you looked at it, the coast represented very good real estate.So just before World War I, the manager of the Trouville Casino, then the area’s center of gravity, decided to build some more grand hotels on the beach.When Trouville refused permission, Deauville said yes, and the Royal and Normandy hotels and the casino between them, which dominate the seashore, were erected.
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Though I was never invited to any grand châteaux or to one of the farms where Deauville thoroughbreds are raised and trained, I did meet a number of those who’ve been habitués.